Oversized knits are everywhere! Large sweaters and shrugs don’t need to be heavy. Soft, billowy yarns and stitches have been gracing the runways for several seasons. Plymouth Baby Alpaca Aire is a chainette constructed, 100% baby alpaca yarn; all the warmth and loft but no heft. Most of the colors are in heathered tones, making them easy to mix and match with many colors in your wardrobe. My shrug and slouch hat are made in a simple Brioche stitch. The shrug is basically a rectangle with armholes; the only shaping (with short rows) is at the collar.
With our blistery fall in full swing, it is a nice time to cozy up to your knitting! –Vanessa
Baby Alpaca Aire Shrug and Hat
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Hat Circumference: 21 ½”, (22 ½)
Shrug to Fit Ladies: S/M, (L/XL)
Shrug from sleeve to sleeve: 46”, (50)
Baby Alpaca Aire:
2, (2)—100G balls, color 5011 for Hat
6, (7)—100G balls, color 5011 for Shrug
Gauge: 16 sts, 24 rows= 4” in st st on size 9, 3.75 sts= 1” in brioche stitch on size 9.
Needles: US size 9 straight needles and long circular (for collar of shrug) and short circular (for hat rib), 4 stitch markers.
Brioche Stitch (Multiple of 2 sts)
Note: Work slip sts with yarn in back.
Row 1 (WS): *k1, yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 2: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Row 3: *yo, sl1, k2tog, (the yo st and the next st); rep from * across.
Row 4: *k2, sl the yo st; rep from * across.
Row 5: *k2tog (the yo st and the next st), yo, sl1; rep from * across.
Row 6: k1, *sl the yo st, k2; rep from *, ending with sl yo st, k1.
Repeat rows 3-6 for pattern.
Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger size in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Cast on 80, (84) sts.
Work in Brioche stitch for 7”, (7½), end having worked a WS Row.
(There will actually be 120, (126) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch; this is ok!)
Next Row (RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 80, (84) sts.
Row 1: pf&b, p to end of row. 81, (85) sts.
Row 2: k1, *k2 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 61, (64) sts.
Row 3 and all WS Rows: purl all sts.
Row 4: k1, *k1 sts, k2tog; rep from * across. 41, (43) sts.
Row 6: k1, *k2tog; rep from * across. 21, (22) sts.
Row 8: k1, (2), *k2tog; rep from * across. 11, (12) sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a tail for seaming, and draw through remaining sts. Sew the side seam of the hat.
Rib band: With size 9 short circular, pick up and knit 72, (76) sts along the cast on edge of the hat. Pm and join in the round.
Rib Round: *k1tbl, p1; rep from * around. Repeat this round 6 times more. Bind off all sts in rib.
Weave in all ends.
Cast on 74 sts. Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, end having worked a RS Row.
(WS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, k across 74 sts, decreasing 4 sts evenly across ribbing. 82, (92) sts.
(RS) Cast on 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row.
94, (114) sts.
Begin working in Brioche stitch.
(There will actually be 141, 171) strands of yarn on top of the needle in brioche stitch, this is ok!)
When Brioche stitch measures 41”, (45), end having worked a WS Row.
(RS): *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. 94, (114) sts on needle.
(WS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, knit to end of row.
(RS): Bind off 12, (22) sts, purl to end of row. 70 sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 2 ½”, increasing 4 sts evenly across first row. Bind off all sts.
Fold the shrug in half and sew the 12, (22) stitch cast on edges of the shrug together with the side edge of the 2 ½” garter band. Repeat this for the other side, where the bind off edges are.
Collar: With RS facing and long circular, start at one of the sleeve seams and pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the side edge of the shrug to the other sleeve seam, pm for side seam, pick up and knit 164, (180) sts along the other side edge of the shrug, placing a marker on both sides of the center 44 sts (this will mark the back neck), PM to mark beginning of round/side seam. 328, (360) sts.
Work in 2×2 ribbing for 6 rounds.
Next Round: Rib to third marker, turn.
Next Round: Rib to next marker, turn.
Next 2 Rounds: Rib to next marker, remove marker, rib 3 sts, replace marker, turn.
Repeat the last 2 rounds until you reach the side seam markers. Then, work across all sts as before in the round, removing the back neck markers.
Work 7 more rounds in ribbing.
Bind off Round: k2, slip these 2 sts back onto the left hand needle and *k2tog through the back loop, slip the new stitch back onto the left hand needle; rep from * around. Cut yarn and weave in all ends.
©2012 Plymouth Yarn Company. 100112vle
ABBREVIATIONS: dec = decrease, inc = increase, k = knit, k2tog = knit two together, m1= make one, pf&b= purl into the front and back of stitch, pm= place marker, psso = pass slip stitch over, p = purl, RS= right side, sl = slip, SSK = slip 1 st as if to knit, slip a second st as if to knit, knit them together through the back loop, st(s) = stitch(es), st st = stockinette st, tbl = through back loop, tog = together, WS = Wrong Side, yo = yarn over, wyif = with yarn in front, wyib = with yarn in back
I love this yarn! I never thought I would say that a yarn has too much shape, too much loft, not enough drape, but then I decided it wasn’t the yarn at all, I just was trying to use the wrong pattern with it! I got the right gauge, exactly, and it just didn’t feel right. Like the shrug in the pattern was supposed to be limp and loose and super relaxed, but mine would be a formed, shape holding work of art…. Only relaxed and droopy was the right look for this pattern. I even swatched this on size US13’s and it got drapey yet never lost shape or buoyancy….
So excited to try this shrug pattern-not every shrug should hang on a body! And frog the old… Find the right yarn for the right pattern and move on!
What a great lesson in using not only the right weight of yarn, but the right feel! Thank you!